The origins of the magazine

1 Early Costume and Fashion Plates
1 what is the difference between a costume plate and a fashion plate?
A costume plate shows costume as it has been worn in the past with it mostly being past everyday fashions where as fashion plates promote and publicize possible future fashions. Fashion plates are about fashion ideas now or in the near future and costume plates are in reference to national, theatrical, court and royal dress.

2 When did they reach their peak?
Fashion plates reached their peak in 19th century when they were hand colored engravings.
The early costume plates were always black and white engravings and of men almost always.

3 When were the first fashion plates produced?
Fashion plates were first made in 1640 by Wenceslar Hollar a talented polish engraver working in England who made 26 fashion plates showing day wear then went on to make 2740 in his life.
Costume plates were first created by Albrech Durer in 1494.

4 In 1778 Jacques Esnauts and Michel Rapilly of Paris joined forces and began to issue their La Gallerie des Modes publication of colored fashion plates.
How many did they produce?
Between 1778 and 1787 they produced in total 342 figure plates and near 72 hat plates published at random intervals.
325 of those plates were reproduced in Paris by Emile Levy between 1911 and 1914, also hand colored.

5 Who created the Gallery of Fashion? And what did it contain?
‘Gallery of Fashion’ was created by Nicolous Wilhelm Von Heideloff sometime after 1794 who’d previously been a painter of miniatures before going out of work so sought work in London and a publisher of fine prints and book seller, R.Ackermann. From there he went on to create Gallery of Fashion.
The G.O.F. was issued once a month with two hand colored figures finished with metallic colors like gold and silver.
He produced 217 Georgian Fashion Plates between 1794 and 1803 with 362 different figures.






2 La Belle Assemble`e and Ackermann’s

1 In what magazine and when did fashion plates start?
They, being hand colored engravings started in 1770 featuring in the monthly magazine ‘The Lady’s Magazine’ a publication of England.

2 What other magazines contained fashion plates?
There were many which fell in the same era like ‘Cabinet Des Modes’ 1785 to 89 and ‘Journal Dela Mode Et Du Gout’ 1790 – 93.

3 Name 3 other influential fashion magazines that competed with each other?
‘La Belle Assemble`e’ which begun in 1806 was rival with Le Beau Monde which begun eight months before belle and the oldest of the three was ‘The Lady’s monthly museum’ which began in 1798.

4 How long did the La Belle Assemble`e run?
La Belle Assemble`e lasted sixty three years which included a change of ownership.

5 What was the full name of La Belle Assemble`e?
The full name was ‘Bell’s court and fashionable magazine addressed particularly to the ladies’ and was owned by John Bell.

6 The repository of Arts, Literature, commerce, manufactures, fashions and politics was created by Ackermann. What design elements did it contain and why was it significant?
It contained guides for leadies fashion and dress makers. But it also had other images like pictures of furniture and art pieces. The styles of art were very classical.
They every month had two or more fashion plates of a lone figure or model plus child.
Ceased to exist in 1829

3 Le Follet Courier des Salons

1 When did Le Follet Courier des Salons first appear?
In 1829 and was a French Magazine with exceptional style. Le Follet had all the very best plate designers there were after the 1840’s

2 Which magazine was Le Follet equivalent to today?
Le Follet is equivalent to or Vogue of today. They flourished in the turn of the century.

3 When was La Mode Founded?
La Mode was founded in 1829 by Henri De Girardin

4When did La Bon Ton appear?
La Bon Ton was one of the three new magazines in Paris in the 1830’s, appearing in 1834.

4 Godey’s Lady’s Book

1 Name 3 English magazines and explain why they couldn’t compete with their French counterparts?
Ladies Cabinet, The Ladies Gazette and The Ladies Magazine were three magazines in England in the 19th Century.
They wouldn’t complete because a lot of the London publishers would often copy engraved plates resulting in a lot being lost I the process. The plates were poorly drawn and tinted and not found to be to a collection.
They began importing engraved plates in the 1850’s from Paris though the plates had been made up to eleven months earlier.
England could not compete because they were importing the French’s older plates meaning they were out of date and not with the time they were being shown.

2 Name 2 American magazines of this period
‘Godey’s Ladies Books’ and ‘Grahams Magazines’

3 What was the most famous American 19th Century Magazine and up until what date did it publish to?
Godey’s Ladies Handbook was the most famous of this time and published every month without delay from July 1830 up to 1898.

4 What articles did it include?
- Godey’s unrivalled colored fashions
- Latest fashion for Godey’s Lady’s book
- Godey’s colored Fashions
- Godey’s ladies handbook

5 The Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine

1 Name two of the most important Victorian British Magazines?
‘The Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine’ and ‘The Queen’ founded by Samuel Beeton.

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6 The Queen Fashion Magazine 1890s – 1908

1 What was the longest running English magazine?
The Queen Magazine’ which began in 1861

2 When did it run until and who bought it out?
The Queen Magazine was sold in 1968

3 What was it called?
Harpers and Queen

4 When was the ‘Queen’ dropped?
March 2006 was the official change.

5 What is it now called? Why? What was used to promote the name change?
Harpers and Queen is now Harpers Bazaar because the word Queen was thought to be too debutante like for this modern world.
To celebrate the new look in 2007 50,000 London Newsstand copies of Bazaar were studded with 200 Swarovski Crystals each on the new up dated title, putting it in line with its other sister titles globally.