St wear to party wear.

Free Wheeling: The cycles of fashion...

Current fad: lingerie on the outside of the garment
Current trend: cropped jacket
Classic: trench coat
These findings were found while searching through fashion blogs on the internet such as fashionising.com and many others.

Trench coat is a bubble up as it has been around for years and years and is a staple in any person’s closet.
A cropped jacket is a trickle down as the designers chop and change the shapes and styles year by year and the population follows suit.
The lingerie is again probably a trickle down seeing for hundreds of year’s corsets and what not have always been worn underneath the garments though this year the designers have taken a new turn.

1 internet: it is the easiest place to access and the most frequently updated place in the world,
2 magazines: are the second best place to see what fashion is doing at that time, not everyone has the net
3 friends: people like to dress similar so they feel comfortable so friends is a big one
4 streets: the biggest variety of people, you never know what people will be wearing
5 fashion innovators: they’re famous and in the public eye all the time, people want to look like a celeb
6 clubs: a place of socializing and a time where everyone gets glammed up, a place of new trends
7 music videos: they aren’t always most recent but there’s always a lot of thought gone into the outfits
8 advertising: it’s generally showing the new ranges or campaigns for stores
9 movie stars: they’re famous, again people like wearing clothing famous people wear
10 billboards: not so frequently updated but is a good way of promoting brands for people to then see what’s new
11 TV: fashion isn’t always a huge hit on your average television though FTV and you’re all over it
12 movies: they take so long to come out you could be up to a few years behind sometimes!

The lingerie look’s color pallet is sitting around the neutrals, nudes and basic blacks, grey’s and whites.

Magazines

Vogue was founded as a weekly publication by Arthur Baldwin Turnure in 1892.

Le Bon Ton

In supplied sewing patterns and fashion of the day. Had drawings and photographs of embroidery and needlework for the only clothing but home wares also. It had a range of articles on home décor also.

Was first published in 1886 in the United States as a family magazine

The present Vanity Fair has been published since 1983 however it was originally started in 1913.

the snaps of my FASHION DOLL

Fashion Dolls & their promotion on hight street fashion

Before the seventeenth century fashion was very difficult, the only way to find out what the latest fashions were was by seeing a person of high authority which was quite difficult for everyone so they would often send out life size dolls to the countries showing off the new designs.
These life size dolls were sent all over different parts of Paris especially, perfectly tailored and stitched to how the garment should look in human size.
To copy the garment seamstresses would completely unpick the garments and copy them to create many more for the rest of the population.
The idea of Theatre de la mode was made in 1945 which were the size of our dolls of today… they had began making them this size because people had started using paper patterns and these were passed through all the courts. The dolls were always as they had been, been perfectly constructed.
In their small time of existence they were a huge part of many people including artists and tailors careers.
They are no longer seen In the form which they once were today however they have evolved into our modern day dolls like the famous Barbie and Bratz.

Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney
-Creative designer for Chloe in 1997, Paris
-She’s a lifelong vegetarian who doesn’t use any leather or fur in her designs
-Her lines include ready-to-wear, accessories, lingerie, eyewear, fragrance and organic skin care.
-Produced organic skincare range ‘care’ in 2007
-Vogue Fashion and Music 2000 designer of the year award
-woman of courage award for working with cancer in 2003
-Green designer of the year at ACE 2008
-Woman of the year in Glamour magazine 2009
-Organic style woman of the year 2008
-Capsule collection utilizing organic materials
-Natural and organic products used throughout her work with denims, accessories, addidas range and lingerie collections.
-Stella is a supporter of Earth Day and also features it on her website www.stellamccartney.com to show how others can get involved with it.
-Thoughts of Stella McCartney from her website featured above: “I felt inclined to create a luxury brand shop that welcomes you”
“Everything in my store and every single garment and accessory that you see is cruelty free, in the sense that no animal has died to make anything in here”
“I really wanted to change what I saw out there”
“The natural environment around me is a huge inspiration”
“I am in the fashion business but I feel when I design I’m in the business of trying to figure out what people want and why they want it”
“I have always wanted to do lingerie. I’ve been inspired by lingerie since a very early age. I was obsessed with beautiful French slips, lace inlays and hand work”
“care is an extension of our brand but it is also a responsible product. It’s for a person who wants to take responsibility and enables someone to make a first step in that direction”

Paper fashion dolls historical reference.
Paper fashion dolls first began in the 18th century during the reign of Louis XV in France. They were popular with those of royalty and at this same time the British were printing paper dolls out telling stories filled with a mixture of fun and virtue.
Paper dolls reflected good indications to the different cultures of this time.

The dolls from Europe were more often than not always printed with an outfit as opposed to mixing and matching with a variety of outfits and would be seen with a toy stage to frame.
Actors and actresses were popular looks at this time.

Pioneer America was rather different at this time as paper was a luxury and was almost never wasted on such things as toys so if children were ever so lucky as to receive one they would be looked after like a prized possession. However, when mechanical grinding machines were invented and paper had begun being made in mass production they were not of value anymore and treated in much less delicate manner.

Paper dolls in these early times did not have tabs to attach around a paper doll like they do today they were actually attached with wax dropped on the edges of the paper and with much care dabbed around to secure the pieces together.
To color the pieces before chroma-lithography was developed they were always hand colored often by widows of the World War II to earn some money telling stories in their ranges.

Within each culture there were different stages of appearance to a paper doll, some were printed with fully clothed and used as a singular, others were printed so layering could happen and others were printed with their under garments already in tack and outfits separate.
Tabs were invented in the 1800s to make attaching garments easier the body.

Paper dolls were backed with cardboard a lot of the time in later days for added support to the growing trend that had occurred with creating garments out of cloth and fabrics rather than paper.

Paper fashion dolls are still seen in today’s society though they are nowhere near as popular as they had once been as we now have 3dimentional dolls such as Barbie’s however they are quite the collector’s items and are seen as fridge magnets aimed at the youngsters of today.

Sexy Lexi
Age: 20 yrs
Gender: Female
Career: Head designer for Versace
Attitude: Thinks and knows she is the ‘it’ chick, Stuck up though polite when necessary
Social Demographic: High class, has the life of the wealthy and socializes with those who are known.
Hobbies: Shopping, going to the gym and staying fit, partying, dancing, catching up with friends, lazing about on the beach and doing anything worthwhile.

Blogs and their Impact

Definition: an online diary; a personal chronological log of thoughts published on a Web page; also called Weblog, Web log


There are plenty of different internet sites which allow people to do what is called ‘blogging’ and the persons who do this are called ‘bloggers’. The space is filled up with whatever each individual person wishes to put on their page…
Blogs can be about absolutely anything and everything like personal blogs of thoughts, feelings, ideas, likes, dislikes, fears and ambitions of that person though they can also be of interests to people like places and sites they enjoy and on a more general basis. Other people like to have it as more of a debating and information swapping page where you can see the different perspectives of people and have resources to many other links and sites.
For every blog there can be followers, these are other people who too have their page and like what that person talks about or does on theirs so being a follower of a blog keeps you updated on what that blogger is doing.
The more people that follow you shows that there is more people that like what you are doing and the more popular you page will be.
Blogging is becoming one of the favorite ways people are using to get themselves out there and show off what they’ve got in virtually every way under the sun.

The origins of the magazine

1 Early Costume and Fashion Plates
1 what is the difference between a costume plate and a fashion plate?
A costume plate shows costume as it has been worn in the past with it mostly being past everyday fashions where as fashion plates promote and publicize possible future fashions. Fashion plates are about fashion ideas now or in the near future and costume plates are in reference to national, theatrical, court and royal dress.

2 When did they reach their peak?
Fashion plates reached their peak in 19th century when they were hand colored engravings.
The early costume plates were always black and white engravings and of men almost always.

3 When were the first fashion plates produced?
Fashion plates were first made in 1640 by Wenceslar Hollar a talented polish engraver working in England who made 26 fashion plates showing day wear then went on to make 2740 in his life.
Costume plates were first created by Albrech Durer in 1494.

4 In 1778 Jacques Esnauts and Michel Rapilly of Paris joined forces and began to issue their La Gallerie des Modes publication of colored fashion plates.
How many did they produce?
Between 1778 and 1787 they produced in total 342 figure plates and near 72 hat plates published at random intervals.
325 of those plates were reproduced in Paris by Emile Levy between 1911 and 1914, also hand colored.

5 Who created the Gallery of Fashion? And what did it contain?
‘Gallery of Fashion’ was created by Nicolous Wilhelm Von Heideloff sometime after 1794 who’d previously been a painter of miniatures before going out of work so sought work in London and a publisher of fine prints and book seller, R.Ackermann. From there he went on to create Gallery of Fashion.
The G.O.F. was issued once a month with two hand colored figures finished with metallic colors like gold and silver.
He produced 217 Georgian Fashion Plates between 1794 and 1803 with 362 different figures.






2 La Belle Assemble`e and Ackermann’s

1 In what magazine and when did fashion plates start?
They, being hand colored engravings started in 1770 featuring in the monthly magazine ‘The Lady’s Magazine’ a publication of England.

2 What other magazines contained fashion plates?
There were many which fell in the same era like ‘Cabinet Des Modes’ 1785 to 89 and ‘Journal Dela Mode Et Du Gout’ 1790 – 93.

3 Name 3 other influential fashion magazines that competed with each other?
‘La Belle Assemble`e’ which begun in 1806 was rival with Le Beau Monde which begun eight months before belle and the oldest of the three was ‘The Lady’s monthly museum’ which began in 1798.

4 How long did the La Belle Assemble`e run?
La Belle Assemble`e lasted sixty three years which included a change of ownership.

5 What was the full name of La Belle Assemble`e?
The full name was ‘Bell’s court and fashionable magazine addressed particularly to the ladies’ and was owned by John Bell.

6 The repository of Arts, Literature, commerce, manufactures, fashions and politics was created by Ackermann. What design elements did it contain and why was it significant?
It contained guides for leadies fashion and dress makers. But it also had other images like pictures of furniture and art pieces. The styles of art were very classical.
They every month had two or more fashion plates of a lone figure or model plus child.
Ceased to exist in 1829

3 Le Follet Courier des Salons

1 When did Le Follet Courier des Salons first appear?
In 1829 and was a French Magazine with exceptional style. Le Follet had all the very best plate designers there were after the 1840’s

2 Which magazine was Le Follet equivalent to today?
Le Follet is equivalent to or Vogue of today. They flourished in the turn of the century.

3 When was La Mode Founded?
La Mode was founded in 1829 by Henri De Girardin

4When did La Bon Ton appear?
La Bon Ton was one of the three new magazines in Paris in the 1830’s, appearing in 1834.

4 Godey’s Lady’s Book

1 Name 3 English magazines and explain why they couldn’t compete with their French counterparts?
Ladies Cabinet, The Ladies Gazette and The Ladies Magazine were three magazines in England in the 19th Century.
They wouldn’t complete because a lot of the London publishers would often copy engraved plates resulting in a lot being lost I the process. The plates were poorly drawn and tinted and not found to be to a collection.
They began importing engraved plates in the 1850’s from Paris though the plates had been made up to eleven months earlier.
England could not compete because they were importing the French’s older plates meaning they were out of date and not with the time they were being shown.

2 Name 2 American magazines of this period
‘Godey’s Ladies Books’ and ‘Grahams Magazines’

3 What was the most famous American 19th Century Magazine and up until what date did it publish to?
Godey’s Ladies Handbook was the most famous of this time and published every month without delay from July 1830 up to 1898.

4 What articles did it include?
- Godey’s unrivalled colored fashions
- Latest fashion for Godey’s Lady’s book
- Godey’s colored Fashions
- Godey’s ladies handbook

5 The Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine

1 Name two of the most important Victorian British Magazines?
‘The Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine’ and ‘The Queen’ founded by Samuel Beeton.

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6 The Queen Fashion Magazine 1890s – 1908

1 What was the longest running English magazine?
The Queen Magazine’ which began in 1861

2 When did it run until and who bought it out?
The Queen Magazine was sold in 1968

3 What was it called?
Harpers and Queen

4 When was the ‘Queen’ dropped?
March 2006 was the official change.

5 What is it now called? Why? What was used to promote the name change?
Harpers and Queen is now Harpers Bazaar because the word Queen was thought to be too debutante like for this modern world.
To celebrate the new look in 2007 50,000 London Newsstand copies of Bazaar were studded with 200 Swarovski Crystals each on the new up dated title, putting it in line with its other sister titles globally.

This Dolls dress in particular i thought was so beautiful because if you look closely the peacock print is all individually hand sewn with beads. Its a work of art in itself and also the person/s who took the time and appreciation to create it.

CULTURAL SIGNPOSTS

The Influence of a Celebrity


Today, fashion is an enormous empire with in the world we live and no matter who you are or where you come from your connected whether you know it, like it, dislike it or not. Your everyday decision on what you will put on your back and the styles in which you choose are more often than not trickled down through people from all over the globe with a high standing, well known and respected status.
These persons include celebrities though of course it makes sense seeing they are continuously watched by the public eye whether it be via television featuring in a show, weekly gossip magazines which often show snaps of the celebs in their everyday clothing which gives others a good indication as to what they’re wearing out of the lime light. Fashion magazines are of course an absolute essential in fashions latest hits and misses and you will almost never see and issue without faces to recognise. These people could be actresses/actors, models, music artists the list goes on and what’s better is that you mightn’t necessarily see them in the pages, rather the garment, but if you have a good eye the celebrities often pop up on a red carpet somewhere with that little number you saw that time. This then sends many of us into a keen frenzy to hunt it down and be sure to be spotted in it the next time we’re out strutting our stuff. So it’s no wonder when ever a hugely televised and very glamorous event is held an extensive part if not most watched and commented on are the designs and of course who they are made and designed by. This works to the designers and the stars benefits as its great publicity for the creator and of course the guest looks a million dollars.
You can really see just how much of an impact one person alone can have on so many people in initiating what is going to be a great new hit and of course for the designer also on whether the design and range will take off or stay and sink to a level not so great and crash.

Social & Environmental Impact

I recently was faced with whats known as a presure test where i was to create a garment out of three different items of fabric whether that be a cloth, a bag, dress, sheet... What ever! Given three hours myself and fellow class mates seperately set off on our challenge to recreate with the little we had...


My Results are as shown... I managed to create two outfits


[Modeled By Mel]